It’s a typical Saturday night in a noisy Chinese restaurant in Houston’s sprawling, strip-mall-filled Chinatown. Waiters bustle through a maze of tables, fish shimmy in crowded tanks, and three generations of the Chew clan sit down to a family feast. Though most of the third generation—who range in age from single digits to the twenties—know their way around chopsticks, forks are summoned, with the winking explanation, “They’re ABC.”