More importantly, perhaps, is that it's got real working class roots and a fair bit of Scandinavian egalitarianism. So maybe that's why even though I never liked Chino Latino, especially during its infamous ad campaign of the early 2000s, its wielding of first-world priviledge was not quite as surprising as the very existence of Betelnut, essentially the same restaurant, but in San Francisco, a city which claims progressive ideals and an international understanding.

Maybe it was the staff dressed in faux-Chinese outfits, or that all the actual names for the foods were set off in quote marks (eg. Malaysian "laksa" noodles). Maybe it was that there appeared to be more Asians in the open kitchen than in the dining room and bar. I could be wrong, of course- maybe they were presenting their food as a humble imitation of the real thing or they were just going along with baffling trend of excess quotation mark usage. Maybe the customers really do appreciate the work that goes into their meals and the class and race differences between the customers and the cooks was all in my head.

You could go to decide for yourself, but I'll warn you that the food isn't worth it, unless you like sauce trying to cover otherwise bland and carelessly cooked food. How appropriate.